Δευτέρα, 16 Ιουλίου 2012

SLEEVELESS DRAPED TOP PATTERN MAKING TUTORIAL
























































SLEEVELESS DRAPED TOP PATTERN MAKING
Learn how design your own sleeveless draped top, blouse, dress type step by step.
MY MEASUREMENTS
This pattern is based on my measurements
Front waist length 46 cm
Bust point 29 cm
Bust 96 cm
Waist 86 cm
Hips 104 cm
Back length 44 cm
Sleeve length 63 cm
Back width 44 cm
Bust seperation 20 cm and
Shoulder 12 cm
FRONT
Let’s start with the front part of the pattern.
STEP 1
Draw a right angle on the right top corner and mark it as point 1.
STEP 2
Draw a line to left which must be equal with the ¼ of your bust measurements plus 1,5 cm (24+1,5=25,5 cm) and mark that point as 2.
STEP 3
From point 2 go right 8 cm and mark this point as 3.
STEP 4
Form point 1 draw a vertical line equal to 1/10 of waist circumference + 1 cm  (86x1/10+1= 9.6 cm)  and mark it as 4.
STEP 5
Form point 1 again draw a line to the left equal to 1/10 of waist circumference  (86x1/10= 8,6 cm)  and mark it as 5.
STEP 6
Connect points 4 and 5 with a curved line. This is the front neckline.
STEP 7
From point 2 go down 8 cm and mark it as 6.
STEP 8
Connect with a straight line points 5 with 6.
STEP 9
From points 1 and 2 draw down lines equal to front waist length (= 46 cm) and mark points as  7 and 8 respectively
STEP 10
Connect points 7 with 8.
STEP 11
From points 1 and 2 draw down lines equal Bust point (= 29 cm) and mark points as  9 and 10 
respectively and connect the new points.
STEP 12
From point 3 draw a vertical line to line 9-10 and parallel to line 2-10 and mark this point as 11.
STEP 13
This is a sleeveless top, so from point 11 to go up 10 cm and mark it as 12. Also go up from point 10, about 4 cm and mark as 12a. Join these points with a curve.
STEP 14
From point 9 draw to the left a line equal to bust separation  (=10 cm) and mark it as 13.
STEP 15
From point 5 towards to point 6 count 4-5 cm and mark as 14.
STEP 16
Then, from point 14, count 6-7 cm more and mark the new point as 15.
STEP 17
Join the both points 14 and 15 with point 13 with straight lines. This is the front shoulder dart.
STEP 18
From point 7 draw a line to the left equal to ¼ of the waist measurements  +4,5 cm (86/4= 21,5 + 4,5 = 26 cm) Mark this point as 17.
STEP 19
Join point 16 with point 12a.
STEP 20
Cut all around your pattern paper.

DRAPPED TOP
To this point, our patterns can be used as the basis for any sleeveless shirt.
Based on this we proceed to design our draped top.
We can sew blouse, top etc.  made of muslin, transparent, crepe, satin, jersey and elastic fabrics, provided they are soft.
Linen is not suitable for drapping.
STEP 1
Fold shoulder dart and tape it.
STEP 2
Make 2 cuts with your scissors in your pattern. The first one in the chest line till the dart and the second 10-15 cm higher till  1 cm before the armpit
STEP 3
Open these cuts  as it gets without tearing the pattern
STEP 4
We need to use one more  pattern paper .
We fold in half. We measure from the top of our new patterns 8-10 cm and we design out a horizontal line.
STEP 5
We now have to decided the depth of our neckline. Let’s say 28 cm. Usually about 22-32 cm it’s OK, depending on our size. We measure on top line  of our  new  pattern from the folded point 28 cm and mark it.
Turn in the 8-10 cm we let on the top inward
STEP 6
We place our first pattern with  shoulder point on the mark on the top. We try our 2 patterns Center fronts to be in the same line as possible.
STEP 7
Open cuts and copies it to our new pattern, and we do not forget to copy and waist line  too.
Cut  all around our new pattern. (We cut all white in the left)
BACK
We continue to design our back pattern
STEP  1
Draw a right angle on the left top corner and mark it as point 1.
STEP 2
Form point 1 draw a line to the right equal to 1/10 of 
waist circumference  (86x1/10= 8,6 cm)  and mark it as 2.
STEP 3
From point 1 go down 1,5 cm and mark it as 3.
STEP 4
Connect points 2 with 3 with a curved line. This is the back neckline.
STEP 5
From point 1 draw a vertical line equal to back length (44 cm) and mark as point 4.
STEP 6
From point 4 draw a line to right which must be equal with the ¼ of your bust measurements  minus 0,5 cm (96/4=24 -0,5 = 23,5 cm) and mark that point as 5.
STEP 7
From point 4 draw to right a line equal to ½ of back width (44/2=22 cm) and mark it as 6.
STEP 8
From point 1 draw a vertical  line equal with the ¼ of your bust measurements (96/4=24 cm) and mark that point as 7.
 STEP 9
Design a horizontal line parallel to line 4-5 and mark 8
STEP 10
From point 2 draw a line to right, equal to the measurement of the shoulder 
(12 cm) and mark 9.
STEP 11
From the point 9 measure down one point at a distance of 4.5 cm and mark 10.
STEP 12
Join points 2 and 10 with a straight line.
STEP 13
From point  8 extend up the line 5-8 about 4 cm and mark it as point 8a. From 8a go up another 3 cm and put a mark.
STEP 14
From this new point go left 3 cm and mark 11.
STEP 15
Join with a curved line points 10-11 and 8a. 
This is the back armpit.
STEP 16
Join points  6 to 8a with a straight line.
STEP 17
In line 4-6, find the middle and mark 12.
STEP 18
Put markings on the left and right of point 12 and in a distance of 1.5 cm
STEP 19
From point 12 go up 17 cm and mark as 13
STEP 20
Join the points 13, 12 with the 2 points left and right of point 12. This is the rear dart.
THE END
Cut all around your pattern and you're done with the design.

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