SLEEVELESS DRAPED TOP PATTERN MAKING
Learn how design your own sleeveless draped top, blouse, dress type step by step.
This pattern is based on my measurements
Front waist length 46 cm
Bust point 29 cm
Bust 96 cm
Waist 86 cm
Hips 104 cm
Back length 44 cm
Sleeve length 63 cm
Back width 44 cm
Bust seperation 20 cm and
Shoulder 12 cm
Let’s start with the front part of the pattern.
Draw a right angle on the right top corner and mark it as point 1.
Draw a line to left which must be equal with the ¼ of your bust measurements plus 1,5 cm (24+1,5=25,5 cm) and mark that point as 2.
From point 2 go right 8 cm and mark this point as 3.
Form point 1 draw a vertical line equal to 1/10 of waist circumference + 1 cm (86x1/10+1= 9.6 cm) and mark it as 4.
Form point 1 again draw a line to the left equal to 1/10 of waist circumference (86x1/10= 8,6 cm) and mark it as 5.
Connect points 4 and 5 with a curved line. This is the front neckline.
From point 2 go down 8 cm and mark it as 6.
Connect with a straight line points 5 with 6.
From points 1 and 2 draw down lines equal to front waist length (= 46 cm) and mark points as 7 and 8 respectively
Connect points 7 with 8.
From points 1 and 2 draw down lines equal Bust point (= 29 cm) and mark points as 9 and 10
respectively and connect the new points.
From point 3 draw a vertical line to line 9-10 and parallel to line 2-10 and mark this point as 11.
This is a sleeveless top, so from point 11 to go up 10 cm and mark it as 12. Also go up from point 10, about 4 cm and mark as 12a. Join these points with a curve.
From point 9 draw to the left a line equal to bust separation (=10 cm) and mark it as 13.
From point 5 towards to point 6 count 4-5 cm and mark as 14.
Then, from point 14, count 6-7 cm more and mark the new point as 15.
Join the both points 14 and 15 with point 13 with straight lines. This is the front shoulder dart.
From point 7 draw a line to the left equal to ¼ of the waist measurements +4,5 cm (86/4= 21,5 + 4,5 = 26 cm) Mark this point as 17.
Join point 16 with point 12a.
Cut all around your pattern paper.
To this point, our patterns can be used as the basis for any sleeveless shirt.
Based on this we proceed to design our draped top.
We can sew blouse, top etc. made of muslin, transparent, crepe, satin, jersey and elastic fabrics, provided they are soft.
Linen is not suitable for drapping.
Fold shoulder dart and tape it.
Make 2 cuts with your scissors in your pattern. The first one in the chest line till the dart and the second 10-15 cm higher till 1 cm before the armpit
Open these cuts as it gets without tearing the pattern
We need to use one more pattern paper .
We fold in half. We measure from the top of our new patterns 8-10 cm and we design out a horizontal line.
We now have to decided the depth of our neckline. Let’s say 28 cm. Usually about 22-32 cm it’s OK, depending on our size. We measure on top line of our new pattern from the folded point 28 cm and mark it.
Turn in the 8-10 cm we let on the top inward
We place our first pattern with shoulder point on the mark on the top. We try our 2 patterns Center fronts to be in the same line as possible.
Open cuts and copies it to our new pattern, and we do not forget to copy and waist line too.
Cut all around our new pattern. (We cut all white in the left)
We continue to design our back pattern
Draw a right angle on the left top corner and mark it as point 1.
Form point 1 draw a line to the right equal to 1/10 of
waist circumference (86x1/10= 8,6 cm) and mark it as 2.
From point 1 go down 1,5 cm and mark it as 3.
Connect points 2 with 3 with a curved line. This is the back neckline.
From point 1 draw a vertical line equal to back length (44 cm) and mark as point 4.
From point 4 draw a line to right which must be equal with the ¼ of your bust measurements minus 0,5 cm (96/4=24 -0,5 = 23,5 cm) and mark that point as 5.
From point 4 draw to right a line equal to ½ of back width (44/2=22 cm) and mark it as 6.
From point 1 draw a vertical line equal with the ¼ of your bust measurements (96/4=24 cm) and mark that point as 7.
Design a horizontal line parallel to line 4-5 and mark 8
From point 2 draw a line to right, equal to the measurement of the shoulder
(12 cm) and mark 9.
From the point 9 measure down one point at a distance of 4.5 cm and mark 10.
Join points 2 and 10 with a straight line.
From point 8 extend up the line 5-8 about 4 cm and mark it as point 8a. From 8a go up another 3 cm and put a mark.
From this new point go left 3 cm and mark 11.
Join with a curved line points 10-11 and 8a.
This is the back armpit.
Join points 6 to 8a with a straight line.
In line 4-6, find the middle and mark 12.
Put markings on the left and right of point 12 and in a distance of 1.5 cm
From point 12 go up 17 cm and mark as 13
Join the points 13, 12 with the 2 points left and right of point 12. This is the rear dart.
Cut all around your pattern and you're done with the design.